So your images look different on your laptop screen than they do on your phone or your desktop computer. This has everything to do with monitor calibration.
Calibration ensures that your monitor is showing the real color, saturation, and brightness of your images. It does this by making a color profile, which you need to update often.
If you are editing or shooting in a room with a lot of daylight, you cannot see your monitor accurately. The reflection of light on your screen will make a huge difference.
The digital file is equal to a film negative in the sense that it needs to be processed. A RAW file in particular lacks contrast and will look flat without editing.
Learning the basics of Lightroom editing will improve your photography. And there are a lot of resources online that can help you with the ins-and-outs of the program. You can quickly learn how to edit photos like a professional.
If you’re serious about how to take professional pictures, you will start shooting in RAW as soon as possible.
RAW gives you so many more options when it comes to editing, and with that comes creative freedom.
You love photography, right? You snap lots of life’s memories to cherish, enjoy and share with friends and family but how do you ensure you’re capturing the ‘type’ of photos you want?
Thankfully, photography is subjective and very personal – one type of shot will work for certain situations (or people) but not in others, which is great… but also tricky!
Recently, we had a good old natter with our close friend, Robert Gershinson – who is one of those amazing professional photographers that has managed to make his hobby a career.
Robert took a moment out of his busy shooting schedule to help put together a guide to understanding the best ways we can all improve our photography skills and muster up that pro-photo beast that’s within each and every one of us!
Robert is a London-based photographer and video director who has photographed a whos-who of musicians: Alice Cooper, Spandau Ballet, Florence + The Machine, Everything Everything, Foxes, The Treatment, Culture Club, Royal Blood, Vintage Trouble, Haitus Kaiyote and oh so many more.
Each guest sits for a portrait session, photographed by Robert. When not pointing his camera at people, he can usually be found at the cinema or burying his face in a variety of comics.
The camera is merely a box that you let light into. The light travels down the lens, passes a shutter (more on that below) and hits a digital sensor that records an image.
Aperture (Av): The is the size of a hole (usually at the back of the lens), that allows light into the lens to hit the sensor. We measure the Aperture in f-stops. Take a look at this info-graph.
The smaller the f-number, the wider the hole – (yes it seems a little backwards) – so obviously, the wider the hole, the more light entering the lens. This is why your camera will call Aperture ‘Av’ – aperture value.
DOF is essentially how much of the image is in focus. The wider the aperture (smaller f-stop number), the less of a DOF you have. So in the info-graph above, an f-stop of 1.4 means the background will be super blurry. And vice versa for a narrower (i.e. larger f-stop number) aperture.
Shutter Speed (Tv): So aperture controls how much light enters the lens, shutter speed controls how fast that light enters – this is why shutter speed is often known as ‘Time Value’, hence ‘Tv’ printed on your camera dial.
This is what’s happening when the shutter button is pressed, the camera’s mirror lifts up and we can see the first shutter sitting over the lens, that shutter moves, exposing the sensor to however much light is coming into the lens (set by Av), very quickly the second shutter moves across the sensor, stopping any light hitting it.
Documentary Photographer LondonAs you can see from the info-graph, shutter speed (or to be more specific the pause) can be either super quick (1, one-thousandth of a second) or really rather slow (half a second). My camera can actually allow me to make the shutter speed even slower and even faster.
To freeze super quick action, like someone running, without any blur, use a super quick shutter speed like 1/250 or 1/500. To capture something moving fast with blur, for example, a car going fast, use a slower shutter speed like 1/100 or 1/50. When using a slow shutter speed, you’ll want to mount your camera on a tripod.
A side effect is this. Using a fast shutter speed means less light is being allowed to hit the sensor, so you’ll want to compensate this by setting the aperture wider (smaller f-stop number). And when using a slow shutter speed (i.e, the sensor is exposed to light for longer), use a narrower shutter speed (larger f-stop number).
Understanding Av and Tv are the basics of photography. Play about, experiment to find your own style and remember, there are no right or wrong answers.
I took this image of The Water Tower, in Cardiff. In order to freeze the flow of the water that constantly streams down the tower, I used a shutter speed of 1/320. (How did I reach that number? I experimented with a few different speeds until I was happy with the results).
Because Tv controls how fast the light enters the camera, a fast shutter speed lets in less light than a slow shutter speed.
To compensate, I opened the aperture to f3.5 to increase the amount of light (so the image did not appear too dark) but without compromising the ‘freezing’ nature of the Tv.
To compensate, I opened the aperture to f3.5 to increase the amount of light (so the image did not appear too dark) but without compromising the ‘freezing’ nature of the Tv.
I captured this image under a walkway at Cardiff Bay. Look at the wooden poles, there is a lack of detail – you cannot see the wood grain, just areas of solid featureless black. I do this often in my live concert images as it adds a certain level of drama. It totally works in travel photography too.
I used Adobe Lightroom (LR) to increase the amount of black and shadows in the image (see below).10 Professional Photography Tips Guaranteed To Make Your Photos Amazing (4)
On the ‘BLACKS’ and ‘SHADOWS’ options, I slid the arrow towards the lowest points and played around with the levels until I was happy with the image.
Find a great spot, frame up and …. wait for someone to walk by. Typically a shutter speed of 1/200 or 1/250 should be fine to stop people walking fast becoming a blur (unless you want that blur?)
Don’t be afraid to use the crop tool to get rid of anything in the frame you don’t like and/or to make the image neater and more powerful. (‘Before image’ above & ‘after image’ below)
If we look at my photo of Roue de Paris below in a two-dimensional sense it looks rather flat. I’ll explain: The image has been framed so everything sits on various horizontal strips.
Along the bottom of the frame are the chairs and a few people dotted about. Above that is the pond, then some more people and trees and then the wheel and sky. In reality, you are actually looking at an area about 50m deep, but my framing makes the area seem reasonably flat. I often create images like this as I find it pretty pleasing.
To do this yourself, look out for patterns in the photos and perhaps even get down on your knees (or lower) to create that perspective.
All cities have a rich history with many stories to find. Understanding those stories and adding your own spin is a great way to create images. I shot this image at Berlin’s Holocaust Memorial. I spun around and noticed a woman looking like she had just stepped out of war-time Europe; black coat, headscarf – really timeless, a ghost from the past. I quickly raised my camera, filled the frame with those concrete slabs, and pressed the shutter. I managed one single frame before she was gone.
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